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A new bounded accidental dining area serves breakfast, cafeteria and banquet in the above longtime amplitude of Mangrove Cafe on Fifth Avenue South. Tim Aten

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Kitchen is accessible for breakfast, cafeteria and banquet in the above longtime amplitude of Mangrove Cafe on Fifth Avenue South in city Naples.(Photo: Tm Aten/Naples Circadian News)Buy Photo

With dishes as apple-pie and simple as its name, Kitchen opened in September on Fifth Avenue South.

The new restaurant boasts gourmet aliment in a accidental setting, confined brunch and banquet from 8:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Kitchen, a sister restaurant to Café Milano and BiCe Ristorante, replaced longtime admired Mangrove Cafe, which operated in the 3,300-square-foot building for 25 years until aftermost fall. 

More: Mangrove Cafe closes longtime area in city Naples

Kitchen’s canary-and-white striped awnings and white, wood-paneled walls add to the farmhouse charm, with a few avant-garde finishes. Glass jars of lemons are lined up forth industrial-looking pipework shelving, and assumption ablaze accessories with apparent bulbs adhere overhead.

Kitchen is accessible for breakfast, cafeteria and banquet in the above longtime amplitude of Mangrove Cafe on Fifth Avenue South in city Naples. (Photo: Michael Caronchi)

More: In the Know: Kitchen opens in city Naples

More: Dining review: The Bevy wows with specialty drinks, agreeable dishes

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More: Timeless a destination for avant-garde American dining

In accession to calm seating, barter can additionally dine al fresco to adore the architect and sounds of Fifth Avenue South. There’s basement at the bar, too, which offers beer, sparkling drinks, red and white wine, and specialty drinks including a acreage sangria ($11) and watermelon mule ($12).

The brunch card is accessible from 8:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily. It includes omelets ($10-$11) and added egg dishes like apricot eggs Benedict ($15) and steak and eggs ($15). On the cafeteria side, there’s salads, flatbreads, lasagna, burgers and added handhelds, such as a grouper sandwich ($17) and lobster cycle ($18). There’s alike avocado acknowledgment ($11) for the millennials.

From 3 to 6 p.m. anniversary day, Kitchen offers 50 percent off an abbreviated adaptation of the banquet menu, and 50 percent of bottles of wine beneath than $100 — a huge steal.

On a contempo Monday evening the eatery’s advanced doors were accessible wide, and a abstract of air-conditioned November air breezed inside. Christmas lights were strung from the ceiling. Our waitress brought a brazier of baptize and a bassinet of aliment to our table of five.

For appetizers, we sampled the shrimp tacos ($15), which can additionally be begin on the brunch menu, and the deviled eggs with millionaire’s bacon ($11).

The shrimp tacos ($15) are abounding with begrimed shrimp, abstract lettuce, guacamole and a chipotle chrism sauce. (Photo: Shelby Reynolds/Naples Circadian News)

The three tacos were abounding with blackened shrimp, iceburg lettuce, guacamole, cilantro microgreens and a chipotle chrism sauce. The bendable tortillas were agilely toasted, and the chrism booze and guacamole fabricated for a nice pairing. The shrimp was calmly lost, though, in the bed of bill and greens, authoritative it adequately mediocre.

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The tacos were bound outshined, though, by the deviled eggs topped with candied and ambrosial millionaire’s bacon. The thinly-sliced bacon was candied with amber amoroso and cayenne pepper. The six egg behindhand were so appetizing they were gone fast, and we admired there were more.

The deviled eggs ($11) are topped with a candied and ambrosial millionaire’s bacon. (Photo: Nicole Raucheisen/Naples Circadian News)

For dinner, one booth at our table approved the gorgonzola and pear flatbread ($14), which came topped with gorgonzola cheese, chunks of broiled pear, atom (an Italian smoked and convalescent meat agnate to Prosciutto) and sprigs of arugula. The pear had a deliciously brittle arrangement and the flatbread counterbalanced the affluent gorgonzola. The jerky-like speck, a little on the boxy ancillary by the end of the meal, could acquire been larboard off and we wouldn’t acquire put up a fight.

The gorgonzola and pear flatbread ($14) comes topped with gorgonzola cheese, chunks of pear, arugula and speck. (Photo: Shelby Reynolds/Naples Circadian News)

The vegetarian lasagna ($18) was lighter than it looked. The layers of pasta, ricotta cheese and mozzarella were awkward with the advice of a blanket of béchamel. The top was accurately broiled and added a abundant bare added texture. The appearance may assume like a advantageous choice, but it was by no agency a vegetable lasagna; it was actual abundant on the cheese, but additionally actual tasty.

The vegetarian lasagna ($18) is layered with ricotta cheese, spinach, bechamel and mozzarella cheese. (Photo: Katie Klann/Naples Circadian News)

The accompanying backtalk cakes ($29) able Southern appearance were plated aloof right, with a huge abundance of cilantro microgreens on top. A band of cilantro adhesive tartar booze beneath got into every chaw after axis the cakes soggy. There was a lot of breaking, but we admired that.

A creamy, mayonnaise-based cole slaw came alongside the backtalk cakes, and at this table of self-proclaimed cole slaw snobs, we were fans.

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The backtalk cakes ($29) are able Southern style, with cilantro adhesive tartar booze and a ancillary of cole slaw. (Photo: Nicole Raucheisen/Naples Circadian News)

The cole slaw was additionally included with our adjustment of the slow-cooked babyish aback ribs ($29). Coated with a candied and ambrosial barbecue sauce, the ribs were so breakable the meat fell appropriate off the bone. And it was a abundantly sized rack, too. All of that plus a huge accumulation of acclimatized french chips fabricated for a bushing meal.

Baby aback ribs ($29) are slow-cooked in a candied and ambrosial barbecue sauce, served alongside french chips and coleslaw. (Photo: Katie Klann/Naples Circadian News)

The 14-ounce ribeye ($38) came with gratin potatoes that were altogether crispy, topped with cheese and broiled with squares of ham. The steak was blubbery and flavorful. It was adapted aloof a bit too able-bodied done for this Neanderthal who brand to advance the banned of how attenuate a steak can be.

A 14-ounce Angus ribeye ($38) is served with abominable gratin potatoes. (Photo: Greg Stanley/Naples Circadian News)

Lastly, for dessert, a allotment of amber block was a affluent amusement of gelled aphotic amber that seemed bisected brownie, bisected fudge. It was as appealing as it was tasty, too, with aloof a simple atom of aerated chrism and a blade of mint. We’ll add this block to our account of bigger things in life.

A allotment of amber block at Kitchen. (Photo: Nicole Raucheisen/Naples Circadian News)

There were alone a few pitfalls at Kitchen, like the apish ribeye and the characterless shrimp tacos. But its strengths are in its simplicity. There is annihilation absurd or abhorrent about Kitchen, aloof smart, aged capacity and beginning takes on home-cooked meals.

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The Naples Circadian News pays for all commons for dining reviews. We do not accost or acquire chargeless meals.

Read or Share this story: http://www.naplesnews.com/story/entertainment/dining/2017/12/01/dining-review-kitchen-fifth-avenue-dazzles-farmhouse-simplicity/901320001/

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