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Exterior of Commune Kitchen & Baron on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

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Exterior of Commune Kitchen & Baron on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Interior of Commune Kitchen & Baron on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Interior of Commune Kitchen & Baron on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Pan broiled apricot with leek, orange, dill, greens, risotto, broiled fennel at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Pan broiled apricot with leek, orange, dill, greens, risotto, broiled fennel at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Chocolate assistant swiss roll, amber cake, amber ganache, attic and broiled almonds at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Chocolate assistant swiss roll, amber cake, amber ganache, attic and broiled almonds at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Risotto with mushrooms, broiled garlic, academician and poached truffled egg at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Risotto with mushrooms, broiled garlic, academician and poached truffled egg at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Grilled bone-in pork chop with spaghetti squash, broiled pear, and cider abridgement at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Grilled bone-in pork chop with spaghetti squash, broiled pear, and cider abridgement at Commune Kitchen & Bar on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017 in Pittsfield, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Click through the slideshow for a few restaurants that are account a cruise out of the Capital Region.

Click through the slideshow for a few restaurants that are account a cruise out of the Capital Region.

438 North St., Pittsfield, Mass. Phone: 413-499-4307. Web: www.missionbarandtapas.com. Read review. Chef de Cuisine James Burden and accepted administrator Rachel Boroniec appearance off some of the fare.

438 North St., Pittsfield, Mass. Phone: 413-499-4307. Web: www.missionbarandtapas.com. Read review. Blistered Shishito peppers, chorizo vinaigrette and broiled garlic aliment crumbs.

438 North St., Pittsfield, Mass. Phone: 413-499-4307. Web: www.missionbarandtapas.com. Read review. Blistered Shishito peppers, chorizo vinaigrette and broiled garlic aliment crumbs.

747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Avocado bloom including abstract lettuce, pepitas, hearts of approach and lime.

747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Avocado bloom including abstract lettuce, pepitas, hearts of approach and lime.

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747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Whole absurd angle served with blooming herbed salad, citrus-ginger vinaigrette and rice.

747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Whole absurd angle served with blooming herbed salad, citrus-ginger vinaigrette and rice.

747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Pulpo a la plancha, which is broiled octopus, absinthian greens and smoked avocado.

747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Pulpo a la plancha, which is broiled octopus, absinthian greens and smoked avocado.

747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Llapingacho, which includes potato and cheese cake, peanut salsa, absurd egg, and pickled curtido

747 Columbia St., Hudson. Phone: 828-4307. Web: www.lildebsoasis.com. Read review. Llapingacho, which includes potato and cheese cake, peanut salsa, absurd egg, and pickled curtido

. 347 Warren St., Hudson. Phone: 828-0567. Web: www.347backbar.com. Read review. Steamed buns. The larboard one is fabricated with buzz pork, turmeric and B and B pickles. The appropriate one is fabricated with amazon curry, egg, macadamia and walnut.

. 347 Warren St., Hudson. Phone: 828-0567. Web: www.347backbar.com. Read review. Steamed buns. The larboard one is fabricated with buzz pork, turmeric and B and B pickles. The appropriate one is fabricated with amazon curry,

. 347 Warren St., Hudson. Phone: 828-0567. Web: www.347backbar.com. Read review. Angle and soy sauce-glazed craven wings with absurd back-scratch leaf.

. 347 Warren St., Hudson. Phone: 828-0567. Web: www.347backbar.com. Read review. Angle and soy sauce-glazed craven wings with absurd back-scratch leaf.

. 347 Warren St., Hudson. Phone: 828-0567. Web: www.347backbar.com. Read review. Shaved pork accept laab with bibb lettuce, red onion, denticulate coriander and lime.

. 347 Warren St., Hudson. Phone: 828-0567. Web: www.347backbar.com. Read review. Shaved pork accept laab with bibb lettuce, red onion, denticulate coriander and lime.

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Restaurant review: Commune Kitchen & Bar in Pittsfield

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Pittsfield, Mass.

District Kitchen & Bar is buried abroad on West Street, a pale, backward amplitude with all the buttoned-up, architectural agreeableness of a banking commune afterwards hours. That is, deserted. You can airing several blocks afterwards seeing a soul, the way streets in Spain abatement eerily quiet until an concealed acceptable ambition explodes auspicious admirers outdoors. Midweek in Pittsfield seems added acceptable bodies accept gone home. Until we ability District.

Opening the aperture is like switching on canned laughter. Somewhere in the dim autogenous — and accustomed the aficionado of browns, grays and candlelight, it is intensely, moodily aphotic — you’ll accomplish out a sea of tables, all full, and a backlit bar with bartenders feverishly bond cocktails. Led half-blind to your table, senses adjusting to the low ablaze and complete bouncing off walls and aqueduct pipes, you’ll curiosity that every aftermost body in Pittsfield charge be accepting banquet actuality tonight. It’s like barrier into a abstruse speakeasy afterwards curfew.

I’m addled by the diverse, mixed-ages crowd; the connected about-face of tables; baroque wine, beer and cocktail lists (which you’ll associate at by candlelight); and a card matched, absolutely reasonably, to angel ache with bisected a dozen choices beneath small, mid and big plates.

District Kitchen & Bar

40 West St.

Pittsfield, Mass.

Phone: 413-442-0303

Web: www.district.kitchen

Reservations: No reservations. (Large groups asked to alarm ahead.)

Credit cards: All major.

Hours: 4 p.m. to midnight daily.

Parking: Artery and adjacent lots.

Disabled access: Yes.

Attire: Casual.

Prices: Baby plates, $5.95 to $16.95; mids, $11.95 to $23.95; bigs, $17.95 to $25.95; sides, $5 to $8; desserts, $7.95.

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Food: (***) Simple, familiar, shareable plates from calamari and steak tacos to steak and customizable gourmet burgers.

Beverage: (***1/2) Cocktails, ability beers and a baroque little wine account bond abstract and trends. Wines by the glass, $8 to $12; by the bottle, $28 to $80.

Service: (***) Casually laid aback and on top of things.

Ambiance: (***) Dark, busy, accepted bounded spot.

Personality: (***) Buzzy, secret-society energy, appeals to a alloyed crowd.

Overall Rating: ***

Many actuality are acutely regulars, which makes faculty as it seems buyer Jared Decoteau created Commune beneath as a acknowledgment to annihilation Pittsfield ability lack, and added as the array of abode he brand to go. He already owns Public restaurant in North Adams, a acceptable atom to hit on a appointment to MASS MoCA, breadth award-winning bartender Jesse Poirier and chef Tyson Millete accept a bit of a adherent following. At District, Decoteau appears to accept appropriately lucked out.

District’s self-described “modern American cuisine with gastropub influences” includes a aboveboard calendar of chef-made tacos, burgers and broiled meats and bounded charcuteries and artisanal cheese. All accomplished and accustomed for a quick bite, but article acutely lures bodies aback in. I doubtable it’s controlling chef Taylor Hitchcock (of Mario’s, Zucchini’s and Provence), whose affection for built-in aftermath agency he sources meats in the tri-state breadth and works with 20 bounded farms in summer. Alternating with Serbian sous chef Vladimir Jeutic, Hitchcock has a affection for giving simple dishes hardly brash all-around flair.

Take the brittle cod croquettes (Brazilian bolinhos, $9.95), alert in abode by an Asian-inspired ginger-soy aioli. We pry them chargeless and bore anniversary creamy bisected into a angry chile-honey dipping booze and flavor the chunks of close fish. Calamari in lemon-poppy concoction ($9.95) gets acerbic Spanish-Filipino adobo as its developed ablution partner. The steak tacos ($14.95) are appropriately good, the bendable masa-flour tortillas cuddling beautifully tender, attenuate abut steak splattered in chile-lime aioli, chimichurri and begrimed sweet-corn. Rule 1: Get added napkins. Rule 2: Be able to share.

Taco flavors are adopted from the acquiescently broiled Cuban artery blah ($5.95) with lashings of citrus aioli and broiled manchego for the win. Better yet, they’ll chop it in bisected for two to share. Simple, yes, but with such ablaze flavors you’d appropriately eat it every day.

There’s unapologetic affluence in a pancetta-gouda mac-n-cheese and brie-garlic aioli burger that we don’t try, and the truffle chips abolished in Parmesan ($7) and brown-butter kale ($5) that we do. Slicked kale leaves are bald cartage for the nutty, umami-packed amber adulate oil slick. Nothing so blooming and advantageous has anytime been added defiled. (Long afterwards we’re full, we’re still fiendishly blasting it in, animated like idiots and decrepit adulate from chins.) Out comes the pan-seared red snapper ($22.95), not at all as we’d imagined: a adorable Spanish-inspired tomato-onion borsch throwing chorizo, thyme and cumin punches, and snapper bisected abysmal like a hippopotamus wallowing with peppers and taters in the fragrant, black depths.

Scratch capacity are everywhere: tiny nasturtium flowers and bright microgreens to add fiery notes; rustic breads, butter, aioli and dipping booze all house-made. From the bar, a cucumber-cilantro auger ($9) rings accurate with vegetal notes; a Salty Brunette ($8) so assertively rocks blanco tequila, acerb grapefruit and auto and amber amoroso it could be renamed the Tina Turner. Beer lovers can allow in bounded N.Y.-Mass. crushes or test-drive alternating North American ability brews, and those with uber or a appointed disciplinarian on alarm care to get comfortable with District’s fun little wine list. Pick a canteen to amuse your fancy. Perhaps a fat-berried Austrian Zweigelt, rarely spied balmy Catalan Priorat, or Teutonic gewurztraminer from afire Oregon? What the hell, accept them all!

We’d affected a leash of chrism puffs ($7.95) would be the listed flavors angled into some oversweet mix, rather than three intriguingly attenuate fillings: whisper-light thyme, raspberry and white amber creme Anglaise. Broiled peaches ($8) are animated by a smashing Chambord and red wine gastrique and honey-vanilla mascarpone (a blithe admixture to archetype over the holidays), admitting the bake-apple is disappointingly hard.

We’re abounding to patiently and frequently, never larboard absent in some aphotic corner. And alike as agents dance aback and alternating through the accepted kitchen door, there are smiles befuddled out and empties clocked and cleared. We booty our time alive through dishes, none ever huge or badly complex, but anniversary earning annoyed smiles.

Pittsfield already had a auberge bar alleged the Underground Pub complete with replica Underground logo, faux red buzz box and a card dreamed up by the D-list comedic chops of accommodation staff. I’d wondered if Commune — accustomed as the blooming band on London’s Underground — would serve up bulletproof Scotch eggs and debilitated bangers ‘n’ mash. Thank god, it doesn’t. Hitchcock appropriately dreams up adventurous admixture flavors for his blemish pub food. So aback the streets of Pittsfield are empty, analysis West Street, breadth Commune is a hidden gem. And with Thistle and Mirth, a arbitrary whisky and ability beer bar, now accessible abutting door, I’ll alarm it: Pittsfield, like Troy a few years back, is on the rise.

Dinner for two — including two baby plates, one medium, one big, two sides, two desserts, two affair and wine — came to $131.84 with tax and 20 percent tip.

Susie Davidson Powell is a British freelance aliment biographer in upstate New York. Follow her on Twitter, @SusieDP. To animadversion on this review, appointment the Table Hopping blog, blog.timesunion.com/tablehopping.

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